"At the Foveran, the best white and brown crab meat was gathered round good-quality local smoked salmon, with little more than a salad and a squeeze of lemon. Bread included the treacle-dark beremeal bannocks.

Orkney beef is justly renowned and a piece of fillet was accompanied by haggis and pastry. This was risky, but the haggis was fortunately not overpowering and the pastry was just a light lattice lid. Little detracted from the flavour of the beef.

Cheeses included a light and very young Grimbister Farm. Otherwise, even the sweetest of teeth would sing like a tuning fork at the first taste of the kitchen's cheesecake made with Orkney fudge."